This brings me to my point! Why muzzle train your service dog? As a young man and eager to learn, I donated numerous hours working with several local law enforcement agencies. One thing that I noticed in these dogs that were not muzzled trained is that they were all “sleeve happy” dogs: fixated on the sleeve. Throw the sleeve on the ground or reward the dog with the sleeve and the game is over! I could see veteran Police dogs biting the sleeve and not guarding the real threat, the decoy! I soon noticed that these dogs did not realize that the fight was in the man. We all have heard the same story in reference to the first contact that a K-9 unit is exposed to.

The opportunity for a legitimate apprehension and what happens? Nothing! The situation produces a frustrated K-9 handler that has lost his confidence in his dog and has to re-think his training all over again.

So, let’s begin with our preliminary education. I will try to simplify this information. We will assume that we have a suitable Police dog prospect, which takes us to another article in the near future! For time sake a suitable prospect should have balanced drives: prey and defense and a civil edge to him. A suitable prospect should not hesitate to bite on a hidden arm sleeve with a full confident bite. The more stimulation (pressure) thru prey and defense drive, the more excitable a proper police dog prospect should be. I will list the following topics below that we will cover in detail that you should consider before commencing training.

1. The right muzzle (Akah).
2. Conditioning your dog to the muzzle
3. Properly trained Decoys. (Technique over view)!
4. Muzzle Routine: Teaching the one, two, three step.
by stimulating the prey and defense drive.
5. Victory hit!
6. Short distance back hits.
7. Progression on muzzle back hit’s.
8. A short pursuit search.

The right muzzle (Akah).

The Akah muzzle is one of my favorite muzzles; it is also used by LPS Police dog training school up to this day. This muzzle has earned my trust and it’s worth the money investment. The Akah muzzle is a leather basket muzzle that allows the dog to breath without difficulty, drink water and also take small tid bits for consumption.

Excellent muzzle especially during the bonding phase! It will also allow the dog to bark and attempt to bite and sooth its frustration during man work! This muzzle is very durable and safe. The last thing you want is an accident to take place; by using a cheap non-proven muzzle. These muzzles come in numerous sizes! Most popular sizes are 6-10. Contact your nearest vendor that sells these working dog products.

Conditioning your dog to the muzzle

Conditioning your dog to the muzzle is not as easy a task as it appears. We will start by putting the muzzle on the dog and attempting to walk him on the lead! One has to make sure that the muzzle is secure and will not be pulled off by the dog. Walk the dog on brisk pace and keep his mind off the muzzle; when he attempts to paw at it, give him a firm correction. “Phooey staz!” Continue your session for at least ten minutes and then put him up in a secure place with the muzzle on, in an air freight kennel.

What we are attempting is to desensitize the dog into wearing the muzzle with out the feeling of being restricted. If the dog feels restricted he will not work, he will be in a shut off mode. This training should go on for at least three days consecutively. Progress will be achieved when the dog is able to walk without attempting to take off the muzzle and adhere to basic obedience exercises. During this conditioning of the muzzle it is vital that the dog is exposed to the muzzle as much as possible. Have the dog wear the muzzle in all his daily activities indoors and out doors for at least 2-3 hours daily!

Properly trained Decoys! (Technique over view)!

A proper trained decoy is hard to come by. A good decoy plays a vital role in each K-9 unit or service dog that is in training. I always remember this statement, “A good decoy makes or breaks the dog!” In selecting your decoy for muzzle work, it is vital that he has some prior experience in working dogs. The decoy must not only have the physical ability but also the educational skills as well. It is vital that the decoy has some concept on animal behavior on how a dog learns.

A decoy should know what prey drive and defense drive is because these will be the vital components in developing your dog to his full potential while working on the muzzle. Be cautious in selecting the over zealous decoy that only knows how to work one way! A good decoy is an actor that knows how to play the role of an aggressive suspect to a passive or fearfull suspect; but most importantly in making the dog victorious and reaching the objective for training. It is pertinent that the decoy knows the routine and most of all, the objective!

Muzzle Routine

Now that we have prepared and conditioned our dog to the muzzle we are ready to begin muzzle training! We mentioned in the beginning that for muzzle training we must have a dog with balanced drives: prey and defense. A dog that displays a full confident bite while biting the decoy on a hidden arm sleeve. A dog that is easily stimulated and enjoys and looks forward to doing man work. The type of dog that if pressure (defense drive) is exerted on him, that he will fight even harder to be victorious. Thus displaying the highest optimal prey and defense drives.

Our decoy should be dressed preferably with a loose trench coat and ready to stimulate the proper drives at the right time! The decoy should understand the overall objective: “To teach the dog that the fight is in the man.” He (decoy) is now the object of prey. The handler should work his dog on a six foot lead and have his dog on a strong leather collar. In this manner the dog will not be choked out and receive unwanted corrections thru the lead.
Setting the stage:

Training should take place in a field where there are little distractions and the decoy can appear and disappear from behind a bush or a building. It is vital to arouse the dog in an element of surprise. It is of utmost importance that the decoy now realizes that he will be the object of prey and channeling the appropriate drives at the right time. In the beginning of muzzle training we want to stimulate the dog as much as possible. The decoy will be no different than a rabbit taking flight from its predator.

Quick, fast, jerky movements as he gets closer to the dog will entice the prey drive. Visible movements as he uses his trench coat as an object of prey. Hostile aggressive actions, such as shouting, tapping of his hands on his chest and the waving of an object will kick in the defensive drive. Be cautious to use the defensive mode at a distance away from the dog in the beginning. We want to stimulate the dog and make him victorious.

Now that decoy has been aggressive at a distance and he has portrayed himself as an object of prey by quickly moving back and forth the dog will be ready to fight or bump the decoy with the muzzle. The dog will give you the following indicators if he is ready to fight or if his drive are at the highest optimal level. The first fight on the muzzle should only be 2-3 seconds and consist mainly of prey drive. As the dog’s confidence and intensity level arises, we will be able to work the defensive mode more frequent. Each time the dog is being worked, he will display more confidence.

The decoy should now be ready to begin putting on the pressure or kicking in the defense drive by encountering the dog and slightly slapping the dog on the muzzle and taking flight immediately. I will recap the following.

1. Decoy is to stimulate the dog to his highest optimal level. By working prey and defense drive.
2. Defense drive will be worked at a distance and prey as he encounters the dog to a closer proximity.
3. Confirm highest optimal level to assure the dog is ready to fight or bump on the muzzle.
4. Muzzle work or fight should only be 2-3 seconds in the early stages.
5. Take flight quickly to make the dog victorious.
6. As progress is made begin increasing the defense drive by slapping the dogs muzzle 2-3 times and taking flight once again! Thus working the prey and defense drives consecutively.

SHORT PURSUIT/BACK HIT

Now that we have the intensity level that we have worked so hard to achieve, and our dog is fighting or bumping on the muzzle consistently we are ready to begin the short pursuit. The short pursuit takes place immediately when the decoy has aroused the dog to his highest level of stimulation of prey and defense. As soon as the decoy takes flight at a distance of 10-15 feet the handler should call out and commence his verbal warning, “POLICE K-9, STOP OR I WILL RELEASE THE DOG”, twice.

At that time the decoy is running and yelling and awaiting contact from the pursuing dog. As soon as the dog bumps the decoy; the decoy should continue and attempt to develop the prey and defense drive by fighting the dog. I have established a routine that works very well for me and I call it the one, two, three step and I will try to explain it as best as possible. As soon as the dog has bumped the decoy, the decoy should immediately take flight of three strides backwards.

During these backward running strides the decoy should focus in continuing the engagement of the fight between him and the dog. The decoy during these back ward strides is taking flight thus kicking in the prey drive. As the dog makes contact again with decoy, the decoy should absorb the bump and slap the dog on the muzzle three times to keep the intensity level at its highest peak. This routine should be done three times, that is why I call it the one, two, three step.

The handler during this time is vocally praising his dog and confirming to him that he is doing the right thing, by petting him and being part of the fight. Caution should be noted that it will not be a distraction to the dog. Once the routine is completed, the handler should control his dog and attach the six foot lead on him. This will allow the decoy to re-focus the dog’s intensity level for the victory hit.

Victory Hit:

The victory hit is basically the last fight on lead, where the decoy fights with the dog 2-3 seconds as in the beginning and then takes flight and makes the dog victorious. Thus increasing the dog’s confidence level even higher. It should be noted that the muzzle work routine should not last longer then 15-20 seconds. This routine should be worked until the dog is consistently fighting with the decoy. I have found that it will take 2-3 weeks to achieve a level of consistency.

Progression on muzzle back hits:

The objective for this training exercise is to teach the dog to target, hit or bump the decoy on the mid back, between the shoulder blades. This will assure and prevent in a real life scenario that the dog is not looking for a sleeve or training aide. Most dogs with prior abundance of sleeve work will attempt to run along side the decoy, in search of such training aides as sleeves and bulky hidden arm sleeves.

That is why with muzzle training we will achieve realism and teach our dog that the fight is in the man! We have worked our dogs up to a distance of 15-30 feet and have achieved consistency in muzzle work. The decoy has built the intensity by stimulating the prey and defense drives simultaneously, thru the muzzle routine! Now the dog just by sight of the decoy should be easily stimulated by the decoys presence! Setting the stage is of utmost importance as we mentioned before in order not to hinder the element of surprise.

The decoy will emerge from hiding and be working a distance of 50-75 feet from the dog. He will be working the dog’s prey and defense drives strictly out of visual cue. The decoy will entice the dog as in the beginning, without slapping the dog’s muzzle from a distance. Key focus is to teach the dog to target or hit between the shoulder blades. The decoy once again will stimulate and entice the dog to where he is certain the dog has reached his peak of stimulation.

The handler holding his dog in a surveillance position will call out his verbal warning twice as before, “POLICE K-9, STOP OR I WILL SEND THE DOG”. Handler’s verbal warning will even stimulate his dog to a higher level. As the dog is sent the decoy should be aware of the dog’s aproximaty to him as he is fleeing. When the dog has reached a distance of 15-20 feet from the decoy, the decoy should raise his right arm and continue tapping his mid back between his shoulder blades. This will allow a target for the pursing dog. Some decoys use their right arm and their left arm by consistently tapping their mid back.

Immediately upon contact from the dog, the decoy should change direction in backwards strides and commence his muzzle routine. Refer to muzzle routine. Do not get discourage if your dog runs by the decoy and does not make contact or fight. This is the time for the decoy to use his skills in bringing out the prey and defense drives. Continue your routine and you will achieve consistency. You are now ready for pursuit/search exercises once the dog is able to pursue a fleeing suspect at a distance of 80-100 yards with consistency! Slow progress is better than no progress.

1. Handler takes his surveillance position with his dog and commences verbal warning as decoy appears.
2. Decoy emerges from hiding at a distance of 50-75 and stimulates dog by visual cue.
3. Decoy stimulates the dog to the highest optimal drive and flees.
4. Decoy will teach pursuing dog to target in mid back.
5. Decoy will immediately upon contact from the dog change direction and begin muzzle routine.
6. Victory hit once again.

Pursuit Search:

If you’re ready to begin the pursuit searches you are to be congratulated! It’s all down hill from this point on. The pursuit search exercise will work all of your dogs naturaly abilities and force him to use not only his eyes but his olfactory abilities. We will develop and reinforce his natural hunting abilities that he so much enjoys. You, the decoy, will be the object of prey once again.

We will begin as before; handler should be on a surveillance position. Decoy will emerge at a distance of 30-45 yards and stimulate the dog and then flee in a straight forward path for another 10 yards into hiding. The handler will immediately follow but allow his dog to work and search for the decoy on his own. As the dog is searching, it is advisable that the decoy assist the dog in finding him by making light natural sounds.

Such as the breaking of a twig, the crumbling of leaves and the movement of branches. This will give the dog an edge and revive his prey drive. Thus conditioning and developing his searching techniques and most of all a confidence booster. As soon as the dog hits the scent cone and sees the decoy and attempts to bump him; the decoy must immediately flee and engage in the muzzle routine. Handler should be attentive and hear that his dog has found the decoy and verbally stimulate his dog as he runs towards him. Hander will then put his dog on the six foot lead and proceed with a victory hit.

Distance of pursuit/searches should increase as the dog confidence and conditioning improves. You are now ready to engage all of your practical training with the dog wearing the muzzle. Surprise attacks and vehicle protection exercises are a few of the many things you can train for. You have now achieved a level of realism in your training; and now your partner (K-9) has realized that, “ The fight is in the man.”

I sincerely hope this article has been of assistance to all our law enforcement officers who put their life on the line everyday, to keep us safe and able to enjoy our freedom and our privileges of being an American! If you have any questions or need further assistance please don’t hesitate to call or email me at the contact information below.

Good Training,
Joe A. Tovar
Training Coordinator